Yellow seedlings of tomatoes - what to do?

Tomatoes are very demanding to the level of soil moisture. Soil should not be too wet or too dry. Determine the required amount of water for watering, given your weather conditions and soil type. In some climatic conditions, you need to water the plants several times a day, and in others - water only a few times a week.

Root rot It may become one of the possible results of excessive irrigation of tomatoes. When the roots of the plants flood with water for a long period, they can no longer breathe. The absence of oxygen leads to the fact that the plant tissue is dying and ultimately disintegrate. Over time, this leads to the death of the plant.

There are two possible causes of root rot, one of which is excessive watering, and the other is the root rotting fungus. The fungus is usually in a state of rest in the soil and is activated only in conditions of long-term humidity (for example, when heocoled). One-time flooding can be enough to make this sleeping enemy active.

This problem is amenable to solving. All you need to do is carefully to harde the plant and check the roots on the subject of decomposed areas. If you notice such sections, you can conclude that the yellowing is caused by at least partially, root rot, and not some other factor.

Once the root rot is confirmed, you need to wash the roots of the plant under soft cold running water to get rid of all the soil. You may notice that some of the decomposed root sections will also disappear. After thorough washing, use scissors to trim all soft black roots before rinsed again. Then place the roots into a soft fungicide to kill the fungus causing the problem (if any). It is better not to return the plant in the same soil. Throw the soil and rinse the pot with a cleaning agent before adding new soil and fertilizer.

You can also cut the leaves and branches, so that the plants can focus on growing roots, and not send all the nutrients collected by reducing the root coating to foliage.

3

Compacted soil

If the soil is not awesome enough, it will be too dense for the normal development of plants. Plants will be restored after you reap and reduce the soil slightly. It will give them enough space to spread roots and breathing.

4

Viruses, fungi and bacteria

Prevention is the only guaranteed solution to these problems. If your plants sharply show signs of infection, it is better to correct them and burn, as pathogens are most likely to spread to neighboring plants. If the problem is soil, you will not be able to reapply seedlings in this place without risk. The most common pathogens:

• Septoria or Septoria Lycopersici.It is a fungus that causes gray or brown spots surrounded by yellowed areas, and usually begins with the lowest leaves. Do our best to reduce moisture in this area, removing the injured leaves, watering the soil, without wetting the leaves, and try to increase the air movement to help evaporation. Be careful to avoid cross-infection. Use fungicide.
• Alternaria Solani.- fungus, appears on the lowest, oldest leaves. It looks like small brown spots with concentric rings that form a "bullish eye". In the end, the leaf becomes yellow, fades and dies. Treat the same as septoria.
• Ralstonia Solanacearum - It is an soil bacterium common in wet sandy soils, quickly moves from the roots to the trunk. It is necessary to remove and burn the affected plant so that the bacteria do not spread.
• Verticilliurn alboatrum- Soil fungus, which begins like yellow spots on the lower leaves and progresses to brown spots and twisted, dead leaves. The best way to make sure that the plant is influenced by Verticillium Wilt, is to cut off a branch that shows these symptoms, and look for dark colored rings. Unfortunately, the plant is no longer saved, but the soil can be treated , To prevent problems in the future.

5

Pests

The pests are not always easy to detect - you will have to carefully examine the trunk of the plant and inspect the leaves to find them. Most often, the plants suffer from flour beetles (flour Khushchka) and tool. Spraying with soap solution will help them get rid of them.

6

Lack of nutrients

The lack of macro and trace elements is the main reason for the appearance of yellow leaves on all plants, and not just at tomatoes. This does not necessarily mean poor soil quality - there are cases when the plant is simply unable to absorb nutrients.

• Absorption complexity (or insufficient watering): Tomato sprouts can absorb nutrients only through the roots. Water is a medium through which they absorb nutrients from the soil. Therefore, you need to make sure that they get a sufficient amount of water, but also avoid and overstrupping humidity.
• Uneven alkalinity. Is your soil sour or alkaline? Tomato seedlings need a right range of pH for successful nutrient absorption. You need to add a small amount of fertilizer, but do not overdo it in order not to get an overestimated pH level.
• Lack of nitrogen: When there is a nitrogen shortage, older leaves are usually yellowed at the bottom, and the top, new leaves remain bright green, as if there are no problems. However, it can be noted that the overall growth rate decreased. You can add urea or ammonium to the soil or help it with manure.
• Potassium deficiency: Here the sheet is generally not becoming yellow, but the area between the streaks looks yellowish, and the leaves can be faded. You can add potassium to the soil.
• Calcium deficiency: Young sprouts can become yellow and die within a few days. Adding any compound containing calcium will save them and eliminate the problem.
• Lack of magnesium: The plant looks calam, and the exterior edges of the leaves can become pale and yellowish. It seems as if the leaves would have a gold kaym. Another way of manifestation of this deficiency is small yellow spots that appear on the green areas of the leaves (around the residences), these sites grow and merge. In the end, the entire sheet will become yellow and faded. Epson salts are a good magnesium source.
• Sulfur deficiency: New leaves look yellow, but older foliage remains fresh and green? Plant suffers from growth slowdown? Add sulfur.
• Lack of zinc: The lack of zinc leads to the fact that the area between the streaks becomes yellow, especially on new leaves. It often looks like a bunch of small leaves at the top of the plant (socket).

All these problems are solved by changing the soil.

7

Normal Stage of Growth

If you observe for any plant, in the end you will see that the old leaves fade and die. Similarly, your tomato sprouts will have yellow leaves downstairs. This is the normal stage of growth cycle. It can also indicate the absence of sunlight due to the shading of the upper leaves. While the plant continues to grow, look healthy and fruit, you should not worry.

If you first grow tomatoes, unfamiliar problems can affect your confidence. Many people refuse gardening if their first harvest fails. Do not give up! Determine the problem and find out how to fix it so that your next harvest is better. The cultivation of tomatoes or any other plants is the skill that needs to be developed, and the experience that comes with time.