The most optimal time to trim the pear is spring, when the kidneys have not yet blocked, and the weather becomes warm. However, this lesson should not be your priority goal: if the tree is fruitful normally, it is no need to expose to "operations". The main criteria for assessing the state of the pears are the growth length and the number of leaves or obliqueness. The development of the tree can be considered normal if the length of the growth rates does not exceed the meter itself, and in its middle part there is about half a meter. For the development of the fetus, up to 50 leaves for each pear. If you have the results of measurements, do not fall under these criteria, then you need to pruning, which will be discussed below in this article.
1
It is not necessary to cut the tree too "hard", as this will cause the formation of thick shoots that grow vertically (or as they are also called "wolfges"), which in height in a couple of years are able to easily overtake even the crown. It is best to break this event into two stages: one part of the scheduled work is performed in this season, the second - leave it to the next one. Or you can use the "tricky" technique, which launching the mechanism of "suicide" of unnecessary branches. With the help of flexible wire, it's good to pull them in the right place - that's all. The hauling as it should "be done" in the village and for the one-year-old one will simply cut it.
2
When removing unnecessary branches it is desirable to never leave hemp behind them, since they make it difficult to "treatment of the wound." Try to always do Spike exactly on the heights of the ring-shaped surges of the bark located at the very basis of the branches, since it is there that there are a special kind of fabric that contribute to the raw "wounds". If the branch is cut even a little higher than the ring, then it will definitely be a funeral there will be there (very hampering ingrowth), and then the bark will dry out, exposing more and more the inner part of the tree, which ultimately leads to the formation of "terrible" in appearance Hollow. With too deep cut (that is, the wounds go beyond the limits) are formed, which are not healing for a long time.
3
In order to completely eliminate the so-called "bark" bursts in the process of removing the branch, at the beginning cut it from the bottom, and then work on top, oriented at the same time on the annular influx itself. Large branches are easiest to be removed in parts: At the beginning, it is quite deeply driving them from below (at a distance of 30 centimeters from the base), and then a bit retreating, boldly sawing above. As a rule, the branch itself breaks away from its own gravity.
4
Separate themselves in such a way that their surface is always neat and as minimal. Never additionally spin them. Immediately after the implementation of this "Operation", the location of the cut is treated with or a conventional garden boiler, or on the basis of natural olifa. Otherwise, the tree will "cry" during the "Software" period, and this will not only weaken it, but will become a bait for pest insects.
5
In the event that you have turned out to be too heavy, you should not use all sorts of feeding (nitrogen and any other imposed by advertising). Nature gave the tree everything you need for self-medication. That is, he is quite enough of those substances that will instantly begin to be rooted for rapid restoration of the lost part of the crown.
Attention: all the rules for cutting pear should be carried out carefully so that the tree develops correctly, and his crown did not become very thick. Only then will it be every season to delight you with fruits: juicy, sweet and large. In addition, its appearance will always be beautiful, fresh and quite well-groomed, right on the envy of his favorite neighbors in the country.
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