How to insulate the bath from the inside

Today, synthetic insulation is predominantly used for internal thermal insulation - mineral wool or basalt fiber. In comparison with traditional natural analogue - linen packs, hemp hemp and red moss - modern thermal insulators are no less environmentally friendly, but more durable. In addition, synthetic materials are fireproof, resistant to high humidity and are very convenient in operation.

The insulation of solid sex starts with waterproofing the base. On top of the draft flooring, dense polyethylene or rubberoid with the allen on the walls are placed. Next lay out the insulation. On top of the heat-insulator, the second layer of waterproofing is lined. All joints are securely sealed with a special adhesive tape. After the work performed, it is processed to arrange a fingerboard.

On a note! Of course, the perfect finishing material for premises with high humidity is a tile, but to create more harmonious conditions, you can additionally use portable wooden legrests.

The insulation of the ventilated floor is a more time-consuming and long-lasting process. To begin with, digging a depth of 0.5-0.6 m. The bottom of the recess is filled with a layer of sand (5-7 cm) and thoroughly tamper. A leaf foam is used as insulation. The material is tightly placed on top of the sand pillow and poured with cement mortar mixed with foam crumb in a ratio of 1: 1. On the clutched concrete, the rubberoid flashed with the allen on the side walls of the pit. The next layer is a cement solution mixed with a vermiculite in the proportion of 1: 1. Next, the reinforcement grid is placed on top of concrete and the cement mixed with fine rubble is again poured in a ratio of 1: 1 (the height of each concrete layer is 6-7 cm). At this stage, it is important to make a small bias towards the drain. After pouring the solution, the support poles lay and fill the purple floor.

Internally, insulation of walls in the bath is performed according to the following scheme. First, the workshop is hanging out of wooden rivers or bars. It is important that the distance between the rolls in the framework was slightly smaller than the width of the selected insulation - it is necessary for a dense planting of the material and the prevention of the "cold bridges". Next, the cells in the crate are lined with the blade fiberglass and are filled with heat insulator. On top of the insulation, a solid foil vapor insulation is mounted. All joints are carefully glued with aluminum scotch. At the end of the insulation work, they begin to finish the facing of the prepared walls.

An important nuance! For the most effective light reproduction, vapor insulation materials are placed shiny side inside the bath.

The scheme of the internal thermal insulation of the ceiling is almost no different from the above-described wall insulation process. The only thing that, during the insulation of ceiling surfaces in the pre-banker and the washing department, instead of aluminum foil can be used more affordable materials - dense kraft paper or polyethylene film. In addition, a small gap (approximately 2-3 cm) must be left between the vaporizoltor and the finishing of the trim. Such an air layer is needed for normal ventilation and drying facing.

On a note! Some masters are used for the inner heat insulation of the walls and the ceiling foil foaming - this modern material simultaneously performs the functions of the insulation and the vapor polypoletor.

For thermal insulation of bath doors, a moisture-proof insulation with a flexible structure is an energyflex. The material is tightly pressed around the perimeter of the door frame and attached with a furniture stapler. For reliability over the insulation, metal rails of suitable size are fixed.

The result of conscientious thermal insulation of the bath will be a significant reduction in thermal losses and significant economies of "energy resources".